70 km north of Xai Xai, the EN1road to Beira winds to its closest brush with the Indian Ocean, only 5 km away. The countryside undulates gently, lush and green with pockets of coconut palms towering over cashew nut thickets – freshwater lakes dominate the area. Here, in a clearing, lies the tiny, sleepy village of Chidenguele (meaning “The Highest Point” in the local, Chope language). The village may only have one short street, but its name is emblazoned proudly in white stone on the hill behind the sandy soccer field. The cathedral (!), crisp and white on the opposite hill, seems quite out of place with its stained-glass windows. The rustic, African ‘mercado’ (market) and single shop, trickle out a supply of whatever fruit and vegetables are available, but always beer and pau (the legendary Mozambican bread). From the village of Chidenguele, a scenic sand track leads to the spectacular coastline only 5 kilometres away.